How to Lay Artificial Turf on Grass: A Professional's Unflinching Guide

How to Lay Artificial Turf on Grass: A Professional's Unflinching Guide

It’s a question our team at Modern Yardz gets all the time, especially here in sunny San Diego where the desire for a perpetually green lawn runs headfirst into water conservation and the sheer effort of maintenance. Homeowners look at their patchy, thirsty grass and then at a lush roll of artificial turf and think, “Can’t I just roll this out on top?” It seems so simple. So logical. A quick, easy fix.

Let’s be direct—and we say this with years of experience correcting failed DIY projects from Chula Vista to Oceanside—the answer is an emphatic, unequivocal no. Laying artificial turf directly on top of existing grass is one of the most catastrophic mistakes you can make. It’s not a shortcut; it's a guaranteed path to a lumpy, smelly, weed-infested mess that completely undermines your investment. The real secret, the one that separates a professional-grade installation from a weekend project gone wrong, lies entirely in the preparation. That’s what we’re here to talk about.

The Critical First Question: Why You Can’t Just Lay Turf Over Grass

Before we dive into the how, it’s crucial to understand the why. Simply covering your existing lawn might seem efficient, but you’re essentially creating a ticking time bomb underneath your beautiful new turf. Here’s what’s really happening down there.

First, the grass and organic matter you’ve covered will begin to decompose. This isn’t a clean process. It creates a soft, spongy, and incredibly uneven surface. Imagine walking on a lumpy mattress—that’s what your lawn will feel like in a matter of months. Second, that decomposing layer becomes a breeding ground for bacteria and mold, which can lead to some seriously unpleasant odors, especially during warmer months. And—let's be honest—nobody wants a yard that smells like a compost heap.

Then there's the issue of drainage. Natural lawns are permeable, but a layer of turf on top of un-prepped soil creates a barrier. Water will pool, the ground will become saturated, and you’ll have a squishy mess every time it rains or the sprinklers from next door run a little long. Finally, existing grass and weeds are relentless. They will find a way to push through the turf’s drainage holes, creating unsightly tufts and ruining the seamless look you were aiming for. Our team has found that skipping the excavation step is the single biggest predictor of a failed turf installation. It’s simply not worth the risk.

The Modern Yardz Prep Process: Your Foundation for an Impeccable Lawn

Alright, now that we’ve cleared that up, let’s get into the proper method. A flawless artificial lawn is built like a house—from the ground up. The turf itself is just the finishing touch. The real magic happens in the meticulous preparation of the sub-base. This is where patience and precision pay off in a big, big way.

Step 1: The Great Clearing—Excavation is Non-Negotiable

Your first real task is to say goodbye to your old lawn. Every last blade of grass, every weed, every root has to go. For smaller areas, a shovel and a lot of elbow grease might do the trick, but for most San Diego yards, we recommend renting a sod cutter. It’s a machine that slices under the turf, allowing you to roll it up and remove it in sections. It’s a significant time and back saver.

Once the sod is gone, you start digging. We can’t stress this enough: you need to excavate the entire area to a depth of about 3 to 4 inches. This depth is critical. It provides the necessary space for the new sub-base materials that will ensure your turf is stable, level, and drains perfectly for years to come. It feels like a lot of work, and it is. But this step is the entire foundation of your project. Skimp here, and the whole thing fails.

Step 2: Framing Your Project and Containing the Base

With your area excavated, it’s time to install a perimeter frame. This is usually done with a flexible plastic or composite bender board, though sometimes treated wood or even a concrete mow strip is used. This frame serves two crucial purposes: it creates a clean, defined edge for your turf installation, and—more importantly—it acts as a retaining wall to hold your sub-base materials firmly in place. You’ll want to secure the bender board with stakes every few feet, ensuring it’s level and follows the intended contours of your new lawn.

Step 3: The Unsung Hero—A Professional-Grade Weed Barrier

After excavation but before you add any base rock, you’ll lay down a high-quality weed barrier fabric. Please, do not use a cheap plastic tarp. You need a professional-grade, geotextile fabric that is permeable. This means it allows water to pass through freely while preventing anything from growing up from the soil below. Overlap the seams by at least 6 inches and secure the fabric with landscape staples, especially around the perimeter. This is your insurance policy against rogue weeds trying to reclaim their territory.

Building the Sub-Base: Where Most DIY Projects Go Wrong

This is the stage where the true craftsmanship of a turf installation shines through. The sub-base is what provides the stability and drainage for the entire system. Getting this wrong results in dips, puddles, and an uneven surface that’s impossible to fix without starting over. Our experience shows that rushing the base work is a recipe for long-term disappointment.

Choosing Your Base Material: The Foundation of Your Lawn

The most common materials for a turf sub-base are Decomposed Granite (DG) and various forms of crushed rock, often called Class II road base. Both have their place, but the choice often depends on the specific conditions of your yard and local availability. Here in San Diego, we have great success with both.

For most of our residential landscape design Services, we lean towards a high-quality DG or a similar fine aggregate because of the impeccably smooth surface it provides. But for a yard with known drainage issues or for a dedicated dog run, a crushed rock base is often the smarter play.

Spreading and Compacting: The Art of the Perfect Grade

Once you've chosen your material, you’ll bring it in and spread it evenly throughout the excavated area, filling it up to the top of your bender board. We recommend doing this in two layers. Add about 2 inches of base, rake it smooth, and then compact it thoroughly. Then add the final 1-2 inches and repeat the process.

And when we say compact, we don’t mean tamping it down with your feet. You need to rent a plate compactor. This is a heavy vibrating machine that will pack the base down into a solid, stable foundation. Run the compactor over the entire surface multiple times in different directions. A properly compacted base should feel almost as hard as concrete. This is also your chance to establish a proper grade—a slight, almost imperceptible slope (around 1-2%) that directs water away from your home's foundation and towards a designated drainage area. This is a nuanced detail that makes a world of difference.

How to Install Fake Grass with DaznDi (Steps to Install Fake Grass)

This video provides valuable insights into how to lay artificial turf on grass, covering key concepts and practical tips that complement the information in this guide. The visual demonstration helps clarify complex topics and gives you a real-world perspective on implementation.

Rolling Out the Green: Laying and Seaming Your Turf

With your base perfectly prepped, the fun part begins. It’s time to roll out the turf. But even this step has professional nuances that are easy to miss.

First, unroll your turf and let it sit in the sun for an hour or two. This is called acclimatizing. It allows the synthetic material to relax, helps the backing lay flat, and makes the turf much easier to work with. Always—and we mean always—make sure the grain or pile direction of all your turf pieces is facing the same way. If you don't, the different pieces will reflect light differently, making it painfully obvious where the seams are.

Cutting and Fitting: The Carpenter's Rule Applies

Measure twice, cut once. This old adage has never been more true. When cutting turf, always work from the black backing side. Use a sharp utility knife with a fresh blade. Trying to cut through the grass fibers from the top is nearly impossible and will leave you with a ragged, ugly edge. Make your cuts long and confident. For trimming around the perimeter or complex shapes like tree wells, it’s often easier to lay the turf over the edge, press it down firmly, and then carefully trim it to fit flush against your bender board or curb.

The Invisible Seam: A True Mark of Professionalism

Seaming is, without a doubt, the most challenging part of a DIY turf installation. It’s the detail that screams “amateur” or “professional.” The goal is a seam that is completely invisible to the naked eye. Here’s the process our team follows for impeccable results.

First, lay your two pieces of turf next to each other, ensuring the grain direction matches perfectly. You’ll want a very slight gap between them—no more than 1/8 of an inch. If they’re pushed too tightly together, they’ll create a mohawk-like ridge. Too far apart, and you’ll see the seam. Next, fold back the edges of both pieces of turf to expose the ground beneath. Lay down a strip of specialized seam tape (usually about 12 inches wide) centered directly under the gap.

Now, apply a generous, zig-zagging bead of turf adhesive to the seam tape. Using a trowel, spread the adhesive evenly across the tape. Then, very carefully, bring one edge of the turf down onto the glue-covered tape. Do the same with the other side, meticulously bringing the two edges together to create that perfect, tiny gap. Be extremely careful not to trap any of the green turf fibers in the glue. We often use a small tool to lift the fibers as we press the seam down. Once the seam is set, walk along it to ensure good contact, but avoid heavy traffic for several hours while the adhesive cures.

The Finishing Touches that Make All the Difference

You’re in the home stretch! The turf is laid, the seams are curing, and it’s starting to look like a real lawn. But a few final steps are needed to secure the installation and give it that lush, full look.

Nailing It Down: Securing the Perimeter

To prevent the edges from lifting over time, you need to secure the entire perimeter of your turf installation with 5- to 6-inch, non-galvanized landscape nails or staples. The reason we use non-galvanized is that they will rust slightly over time, which helps them grip the sub-base even better. Place a nail every 6-8 inches around the entire edge. When you hammer them in, use your fingers to separate the grass blades so you’re driving the nailhead through the backing and down into the base without trapping and flattening the green fibers. The nailheads should be completely hidden once you’re done.

The Infill Debate: What to Use and Why It’s Essential

Infill is the final, critical component. It’s a granular material (usually a specialized type of sand) that you spread over the top of the entire lawn. It serves several vital purposes: it adds weight to hold the turf in place, it helps support the individual grass blades so they stand upright, it protects the backing from UV rays, and it helps keep the turf cool. Some infills, like zeolite, are specifically designed to absorb ammonia and neutralize pet odors.

Never skip the infill. Without it, your turf will look flat and unnatural, and it will wear out much faster. The best way to apply it is with a broadcast or drop spreader to ensure even distribution. The amount you need will depend on the specific turf product you’ve chosen—check the manufacturer’s recommendation. Once the infill is down, you’ll need to work it down into the base of the fibers using a stiff-bristled push broom or, ideally, a power broom. This final brushing also makes the grass blades stand up, giving your new lawn that perfect, manicured look.

Why a Professional Installation Can Be the Smartest Choice

As you can see, a proper turf installation is a complex, labor-intensive process with many potential pitfalls. It requires specialized tools like sod cutters, plate compactors, and power brooms. It demands precision, patience, and a deep understanding of site preparation and drainage. While a DIY approach is possible, the margin for error is small, and the consequences of a mistake can be costly and frustrating.

This is where a professional team makes a significant difference. At Modern Yardz, this is what we do every single day. We have the equipment, the experienced crew, and the refined process to ensure every step—from excavation to the final power-brooming—is executed flawlessly. We understand the specific soil and climate conditions here in San Diego, which informs our recommendations for base materials and turf products. Our company philosophy, which you can learn more about on our About page, is built on a foundation of quality craftsmanship and long-term client satisfaction.

Choosing a professional installation isn’t just about convenience; it’s about guaranteeing a return on your investment. It’s about ensuring your new lawn not only looks stunning on day one but continues to perform beautifully for the next 15-20 years. If you’re considering transforming your yard, we invite you to browse our Home page for inspiration and to Contact our team for a design consultation. We’d love to show you what’s possible.

Transforming a yard is a significant, sometimes dramatic shift. It’s not just about aesthetics; it's about creating a functional, beautiful outdoor living space that enhances your lifestyle. The process we've outlined is comprehensive, and honestly, it’s the only way to achieve a result that will stand the test of time. It’s an investment in your home that pays dividends in beauty, usability, and peace of mind for years to come.